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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have bought some John Deere replacement gauges off the internet to fit on the boat, the voltmeter, ammeter, & the water temperature gauges are pretty straightforward to do, but the oil temperature gauge has a threaded brass boss in the centre of it, with a hole about 3mm in dia in the middle. Obviously this must be to receive a flexible tube with a seal on it, that screws onto the thread on the brass boss, & the other end must screw into the crankcase somehow, & the oil must fill the tube & move the needle in the gauge.
The existing oil warning is a light (which doesn't work) is operated by a pressure switch in the crankcase, & I HOPE that the thread that holds the oil switch, is interchangeable with the pipe & nipple from an oil operated one. So where would I go to get something like that? A motor factors? or would you take it somewhere to get it fabricated up. What about that hydraulics firm on the Enterprise Zone in Llansamlet????????
 

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Vic, try talbot hydrolics down in port talbot. Take the gauge as it might be a tapered thread. They made on for my bmc in the ip24 I had. Else the mini smiths gauge hoses on eBay might fit but the pipes can be short.
 

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Also look on the engine block for a screwed in barrel with two contacts on it, that be the sender. You need to whip that out and get a threaded nipple that connects the block and pipe together. f you need a hand ille pop down the belle and have a look for you. Also I might have some bits in the shed left over from the ip24 engine refit.
 

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I think I have a ford capri oil pipe up the shed if you want it ?
 

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Try Holts jcb in portalbot or jg plant in Bridgend mate
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Also look on the engine block for a screwed in barrel with two contacts on it, that be the sender. You need to whip that out and get a threaded nipple that connects the block and pipe together. f you need a hand ille pop down the belle and have a look for you. Also I might have some bits in the shed left over from the ip24 engine refit.
There is a screwed in barrel nipple in the block which I think might well be knackered, because even the primitive oil light doesn't work when you switch the ignition on (as I think it should do). I have been assured that both oil & temp lights come on when the oil pressure gets low, or the water overheats :eek::eek::eek: I don't think I really want to find that out. Any offer of help gladly accepted whenever it is convenient for you.
First job seems to be remove the old sender switch from the block, to determine the size & thread, now I may have to get Richie to do that, as I am the wrong shape to get down into the engine nowadays, & I must put a notice on the dash "DO NOT START" or we will end up with a bilge full of oil & conrods :eek::p
 

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What you need to be aware of with that type gauge is the time lag before it shows pressure from starting the engine dependant on length of pipe to the gauge. By the sounds of it, your pressure swith has failed (although its more common for them to fail in the on position- so more likely you have a wiring fault or blown bulb), you can get manifold adaptors for most common threads so you can run an electrical switch and have a take off for your oil line to your mechanical gauge.

The benefits of running both are that you know within seconds you are making pressure or not so can switch off if necessary before serious damage occurs, and once running you can monitor actual pressure. By the time your gauge sees pressure you can be pretty certain a turbo is too, so dont rev until the gauge has moved.

On 1st start of the day my Jeep takes 15-20 seconds to see oil pressure at the gauge, on a cold morning longer, I never touch the throttle until it has moved, you can also hear the engine note change as the oil gets up the engine.....

You need to know what threads you have, 14mm 22mm are quite common for switches, 1/8th NPT and BSP, along with JIC can all be used on gauges. Someone like parker hydraulics or pirtek should be able to identify what threads you have and supply any necessary fittings and pipe for your install. You should be able to find either fairly locally, or even your local hydraulics shop should be able to sort you with most parts available next day if not in stock

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would fit an electric oil pressure gauge.
Sorry Brian but the "job lot" included a pipe fed gauge, so that's what gets fitted, maybe not as good as an electric. but better than a bulb that doesn't work :D
 

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Sorry Brian but the "job lot" included a pipe fed gauge, so that's what gets fitted, maybe not as good as an electric. but better than a bulb that doesn't work :D
The bulb shouldn't take much fixing tho', then you can have both
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The bulb shouldn't take much fixing tho', then you can have both
How can I have both? I thought the switch that screws into the crankcase has to be removed, to fit the pipe barrel nipple into it? All this "smoke & mirrors" talk frightens me :eek::D
 
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How can I have both? I thought the switch that screws into the crankcase has to be removed, to fit the pipe barrel nipple into it? All this "smoke & mirrors" talk frightens me :eek::D
Screw into the block a 'T' adaptor ............ in one port fit the new gauge pipe and then screw a pressure switch for the 'oil light' into the other port ...........

As for fittings ...............

John Deere gauges are generally American so will usually be NPT thread form

Most older UK engines will be BSP thread form

Most later UK engines and gauges will be Metric thread form.

NOTE: NPT and BSP will screw into each other, but the thread form is different and it WILL leak, plus you will damage one of the threads beyond repair.................

ASAP marine supplies & Merlin motorsport are the best stockists of adaptors .............. give ASAP a call as I have found them more than helpful in the past .................they will probably be able to supply all the fittings and any pipe that you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Screw into the block a 'T' adaptor ............ in one port fit the new gauge pipe and then screw a pressure switch for the 'oil light' into the other port ...........

As for fittings ...............

John Deere gauges are generally American so will usually be NPT thread form

Most older UK engines will be BSP thread form

Most later UK engines and gauges will be Metric thread form.

NOTE: NPT and BSP will screw into each other, but the thread form is different and it WILL leak, plus you will damage one on the threads beyond repair.................

ASAP marine supplies & Merlin motorsport are the best stockists of adaptors .............. give ASAP a call as I have found them more than helpful in the past .................they will probably be able to supply all the fittings and any pipe that you need.
Very informative gpsguru the engine is a 1995 Lister so don't know if that is an early or recent engine, best thing is to take it out & take it to somebody to put a thread gauge on it to find out, so I could end up with a BSP fitting on the engine end (or even a metric) & an NPT fitting onto the back of the gauge. Good thinking on the tee adapter, I think with the cost racking up it will be a case of the club paying for the fittings as a "home improvement" project :D
 
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Very informative gpsguru the engine is a 1995 Lister so don't know if that is an early or recent engine, best thing is to take it out & take it to somebody to put a thread gauge on it to find out, so I could end up with a BSP fitting on the engine end (or even a metric) & an NPT fitting onto the back of the gauge. Good thinking on the tee adapter, I think with the cost racking up it will be a case of the club paying for the fittings as a "home improvement" project :D
I would suspect a Lister is BSP .............. ;)

The fittings will not be expensive ................ give ASAP a call ........ 01502 716993
 

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[QUOTE="blueskip, post: 9703269, member: Good thinking on the tee adapter, I think with the cost racking up it will be a case of the club paying for the fittings as a "home improvement" project :D[/QUOTE]

You shouldn't be paying more than £20 including pipe- a hydraulics shop will undoubtedly be cheaper than a marine dealer. Make sure you get more pipe than you need as nylon pipe is useless if you kink it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am champing at the bit now I have the information I wanted, nothing like getting it straight in your head about such things as possible difference in threads for older & new stuff, & the difference in UK/USA kit. I have it in my head now that the fitting at the back of the gauge will be NPT & that the thread into the block will be BSP. There is nothing worse than going into shop knowing what you want, but not knowing what to call it, & when the clever guy behind the counter says "What is the thread on the back of the gauge sir?" it's nice to be able to say "Well its a John Deere gauge, so it will probably be NPT, & seeing as the engine is a 1995 Lister the barrel nipple will probably be a 1/8" BSP (if you would care to use your thread gauge), & I will require 10ft of plastic pipe to connect the barrel nipple to the gauge".
Then you don't sound like a useless joskin, but somebody who is semi proficient in what he is doing :D
I cant wait for this weather to improve so I can get down the boat & get these defunct fittings out of the engine, find out what thread they are, & get new ones in there. I cant wait to sound like an instrument fitter when I go to the hydraulics shop :D :rolleyes:
 

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If you not got hydraulics place near-by perhaps a diesel specialist may be close they will make a solid pipe to fit if you have the length and just bend in place yourself, they should have a variety of fittings as well.
 

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When the clever guy behind the counter says "What is the thread on the back of the gauge sir?" it's nice to be able to say "Well its a John Deere gauge, so it will probably be NPT, & seeing as the engine is a 1995 Lister the barrel nipple will probably be a 1/8" BSP (if you would care to use your thread gauge), & I will require 10ft of plastic pipe to connect the barrel nipple to the gauge".
Then you don't sound like a useless joskin, but somebody who is semi proficient in what he is doing :D
I cant wait for this weather to improve so I can get down the boat & get these defunct fittings out of the engine, find out what thread they are, & get new ones in there. I cant wait to sound like an instrument fitter when I go to the hydraulics shop :D :rolleyes:
I doubt very much the sender end is 1/8th at all. Your pressure switch could have a variety of threads, imperial or metric, so you will need to take it with you. You will need an adapter to fit where the pressure switch was, either a 3 port m/f/f or 2 port m/f. You can then fit an adaptor for your oil pressure line to gauge. As the gauge will most likely be NPT ( I would still take that along just in case...) it would be easier to reduce down to 1.8th pipe.

Your shopping list should look something like this.......
1 x 2 or 3 port adaptor
1 x reducer m/f
1 length of 1/8th pipe
1 x nut, olive and insert 1/8th BDP (adaptor end)
1 x nut,olive and insert (1/8th NPT?) gauge end
1 x roll PTFE tape (for sealing adaptor to engine block

For your electrical low pressure sender you should have-
+12v to warning buld with ignition on
continuity from bulb to switch
good earth to engine block
When pressure id low switch should earth to block, so with switch removed you should have continuity from switch wire to switch body. When pressure rises, then switch should open contacts and break the circuit

Hope that all helps
Steve
 
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