Not had many tangles with a french boom. Initially I had a couple this was down to mainline twist with new line loaded on the multiplier.

First check the main line:
a) is the line coming off the reel twisted? If so - shove a 3oz weight on and then troll behind the boat to reload the line. If you've loaded a FS reel badly then it's going todo this until re-loaded in this way..
b) is the main line weight causing the line to twist on decent or in a tide? Flat sided weights can cause this, use cannonballs or possibly bomb leads - I've not noted any twist on decent or in channel tides..

Alternatives are use a swivel - this allows the mainline to rotate or twist/untwist without impacting the lure tracer..

Most (good) booms tend to sit in the tide pointing down tide. When the tide turns or slackens completely sometimes the boom cannot get a direction and rotates causing a problem - you can add tape on the boom to act like a rudder to improve the effect in slack tides but the slack/turn is something you need to compensate for.. you may as well switch to no boom with a direct lure at this point for the period.

How think is the main line and if you're using thick mono with a heavy memory can cause additional problems.

I'm assuming you drop the lure in the water first.. then allow the trace to flow before starting to drop the lead in a steady fashion. Most people tangle by simply free spool dropping - if you're using flat sided lets that fly in the tide.. then you'll have to take it slower..

Just my 2p..

 

Always use wire french type booms for wrecking with gills / shads etc. Tie the line directly to the boom on the leader end i tie on 12 - 18 inches of 40 - 50lb mono this effectively extends the length of the boom next a swivel and then usually 8 -10ft of 25 mono leader. Dont have issues with line tangling unless you drop down really fast or until the tide slackens right off ( time to go jigging or hopping then )
Do get issues if pout take the lures as they spin so much on the way up. Cut off 25lb mono and use fresh no point trying to straighten kinked line.
If live baiting or over reels then i use a portland rig or more usually just a 3 way swivel

 

Contrary to Nicks thread, I find heavier line actually minimises line twist..I dont know what Nick classes as heavy, I have no worries using 50 lb mono, not because I expect humungous fish, but because it doesnt twist as much as say 25 lb. I have seen anglers using 15 lb -30 lb mono and it comes back like a bundle of knitting wool.

Another nono for me is extra long mono off booms.. All my best days when Pollacking have been when I use short lengths of 50 lb mono from sinker to Jellyworm, short equals about 6-8 ft .The fish dont mind, it doesnt alter the way the worm or soft plastic works.

Thats not to say other methods dont work, its just what I find works for me, there is absoluteley no point in arguing one method over another, what works or you is the one that is best.

Dave

 

what works or you is the one that is best.

What he says (nearly!)

 

Used booms years ago, don't bother with them now, cause too many tangles.

 

How and why?

I would just like an explanation on how they cause tangles.
anyone?

 

1 link swivel lees to tangle and get caught in the wreck

 

We no longer use wire booms when gilling the wrecks.

Mainline to 3 way swivel, weight clip and rubberband for weaklink on the bottom and trace off the horizontal loop.

Rarely have twists up the mainline.

 

I always use 50lb braid straight to a portland rig and 30lb amnesia for trace with the run of the tide determining the length, works for me

 

Even though I have loads of booms, I only use portland rigs for gilling or drifting with livebaits.
I find they very rarely tangle but there are a few items you need to look out for/do:

• Never use anything other than a swivel to connect the portland rig to your mainline
  • No clip swivel
  • No quick link
  • No split rings
• Keep swivel and bead size sensible, you dont need massive swivels.
• Use swivels of high quality.
• Cover knots on rig with a few mm of silicon tubing
• If you get a kink in your hook link, pretty much anywhere between the swivel and hook then retie the hook link. Once the hook link is kinked it will tangle.
  • keeping hook link fluro carbon above 15lb will reduce the chances of your hook link kinking.
• Stopping before you hit the bottom briefly (3s or so) often helps straighten everything out without risking loosing everything in the reef or wreck,
• Most importantly control the drop to the bottom, take it slow - going down too quick and tangling means your effectively missing the drift anyway.

These are just a few observations I've made over the last couple of years - I sort of have the benefit of watching the rest of the crew, which you to see which rigs are working and which are coming up in mess.

 

Should have said - I use 50lb shock leader from the braid and the French boom on that. Either tied shockleader to the boom and then 2x rubber bands to the lead as a weak link. Or.. Using the French boom properly. The shock leader gives grip/abrasion protection for the braid. Typically only about 6ft - shock leader gives some bite impact stretch too.

Boom to lure is typically 25lb mono or 40lb mono depending on target. Typically 4ft length to keep things easy on a charter boat.

The swivel mentioned was using a captive swivel between to beads on main line so it replaces the boom.

 

Well said, you never fail to tangle with everyone on the boat

That was a funny one Cooty, I seem to recall a couple of very snarly old tangles caused by your good self during this years foreign trip when my line wasn't in the water

I guess that going back to the question.....(and I note that you don't use booms either) if the boom free rig does twist up a bit as it sinks it is likelier to be able to untwist as tension is applied on the retrieve? I use a simple rig which is shock leader through the eye of a small link then a soft bead on the line as a buffer and a swivel tied on to which I attach the leader.

Agree with Deans comment above re getting kinks in the leader, once that happens it seems that tangles are inevitable so it is worth changing the leader.

If you lose it on the wreck it is pretty simple to retie so you are back in business.

Whatever anyone does is a matter of personal choice usually based on experience so this is just how I go about it.

 

I use an 18 inch boom typically tied off with a hook length of 8-10ft of 25lb fluorocarbon. Have very few tangles. I think the stiffer fluorocarbon makes a difference.

I use the Portland rig if live baiting mackerel or launce.

Letting the weight and lure free spool is asking for trouble so I always keep a little thumb pressure on the spool.

 

My mate was also adamant that "Portland rigs" don't tangle.

Portland is a rig I use a lot .................. they dont tangle as long as you use a controlled decent, if you let them down too fast then you get a mess !

 

I go for the 'keep it simple' approach, if it's not 100% needed don't tie it on !

Control the drop and you do not need wire or plastic booms .

 

I have been using clements booms for 50 years and still do. I have caught most UK species on them from mackerel to blue shark. I have found any tangles are caused more by tide influence than the boom. In a strong spring I can drop the bait quite quickly without tangles but in slack waters a slower rate of drop is required. Having mastered this technique I now get no problems.