Hi Mike,
The bilge pump (only one fitted) may be in the same stupid position as mine ie above the bilge height.
The self draining cockpit has a hatch which seals most of the time but additionally you can get spray through the door, condensation build up over time. It is always a good idea to have a bilge pump as even with a minor breach to the hull the pump may be able to keep up. Also for some reason the boat is at mooring and the scupper vents may become blocked with seagull crap or somesuch thing.
DO NOT attempt to run it as it can and will burn out and they are pig to change, as it is probably sitting dry at the moment. You would need to have about 6-8 inches of water before it would start if it is like mine. The wiring of them is fairly simple, it must be if I can do it. There should be a round screw lid hatch in the outboard well and the pump/float switch was located below this it should also have a float switch and that is connected to the auto switch on the dash. It is connected, like the radio, and should be outside the system controlled by the battery master switch so it works all the time if necessary.
If you have the Quicksilver manual there is a bit showing the wiring diagram with switch etc. If not PM me and I will try to scan the relevant part. Your agent should be able to supply.
On mine I have off/manual/auto position switch. I HAVE made up a big sign beside as "LEAVE ON AUTO".
I will reposition mine at some point so that it is positioned a bit nearer where the actual water is, ie keel bilge in front of the fuel tank. My suggestion was for the introduction of a non return and y piece as a back up. The pumps are very cheap cassette type. Hope this helps
Rgds
Rod

 

I also intend to fit a pump in the keel bilge. I have fitted drain plugs so that when she is on the trailer I can empty her. My boat is moored usually for several months at a time and every time I open the plugs I get gallons of water coming out. God knows how it gets in, possibly through the screw holes in the keel band?
It worries me that the water will be soaking into whatever is inside the keel bilge and I would rather keep it pumped out while moored.
Mike, the pumps are actually situated behind the fuel tank, so are only any good should any water get into the underdeck storage. You would also need a considerable amount to get in there before the pumps would work.
I always leave the auto pump on and I can not hear it so assume that it will only work if necessary.
The scuppers will only drain water from the deck and not the storage area.

 

The noise you are hearing sounds as if you have one of the better pumps fitted,the same as I have.It 'Tests' for water every few minutes,you hear a 'Whirring'then it stops.This is quite normal.If it detects water it will then start to pump it out.Whatever you do leave it on all the time,if you spring a leak and it is off then that is curtains.

 

Can't find anything in my various manuals about the bilge pumps fitted to my boat,
A decent dealer would have spent time going thorugh them with youbut saw RodB's post in another thread, and he's seemed to work them out.

So ..... there must be two fitted.
A decent dealer would have shown you where they are and how they work on hand over. That is what the hand over is for. Presumably one can be operated manually if you see the back end sinking for no apparent reason, and the other is wired in to automatically switch in if the boat is parked and you ain't around.
Typically you will have one manual hand bilge pump. If you ever need it in anger. Pump it fully and slowly to get it to work efficiently. Do not pump it fast (panic) as it will not work well.
The second pump could be one of two styles of electronic bilge pump (three if you include Ron's, but these are normally fitted to boats like ribs and that are not self draining) and I would hazard a guess that it is the first as it conforms to regs, but is cheaper.
1) You probably have a "rule" (brand name) bilge pump that only works when the switch is operated (the noise you hear) and turns off when you turn off your batteries.
2) It is possible you have an upgraded pump that may be a rule or other brand that also works on a "Float Switch". A float switch bilge pump works just like number 1), but also has a little floaty thing a the pump. It works like a toilet stop ****. As water comes in the float rises, when it rises to a set point the bilge pump will operate. A pump with a float switch is wired to bypass the battery isolators.

Will it be wired up like this at the factory or does a dealer have to do it. In other words is there any danger that someone could have miswired it so that when I switch my double pole isolation switch to 'off', it also swicthes off the autobilge pump?, and where would I pour water to check it's working
I suspect you have pump 1) above. It will turn off with the isolators. Very easy to swap it and rewire it for ump 2).

I have a switch next to the wheel that says 'auto bilge pump' and on Lookfar (warrior165), I had to make sure that I left this switched on when I left the boat. But I suspect that this is not the case on the QS, as when I do switch it on I can hear a pump running even though there is no water to pump. Am I right in thinking therefore that this switch is to allow you to recruit both pumps in the event of serious flooding at sea?
No, it just turns on the electric bilge pump. The manual pump is still manual.

I'm a bit alarmed at your suggestion that the way QS have located and wired their two pumps is a bit of a mistake. Do you know if this is still the case on the 2007 boats and if so could you explain the problem (and solution) to me in simple terms.
Get a bucket of water, open up your lazarette hatch (cockpit deck hatch) and pour it in.
If the bilge pumps don't clear 95% of it then it / they are probably in the wrong place. Sponge it out if you have to, it takes two mins.
There are easy solutions if it / they are wrong and it simply involves either physically relocating the electronic pump itself (1 hour job) or attaching a length of marine hose to the sucking end of the pump and sticking the end into the bilge whereit needs to be. Of course, if it is on a float switch it will need to be relocated.

Finally - my naive question as I always have to include one for the delectation of some on here. I can understand why there needs to be an autobilge pump on the Warrior, as water can build up inside (rain, waves? ) and it's got nowhere to go, but on the QS surely everything that gets on board that shouldn'e do, departs via the scuppers doesn't it?
Actually not at all naive Mike, but again this should have been explianed to you.
Boats are boats and no matter how hard you try, they are nasty damp places and water can miraculously get into the bilge and nobody has a clue were it has come from.
...it could be via tiny crack in the anchor locker, a skin fitting thathas a very slow leak etc etc.
If you find water in there taste it. I know the thought is unpleasant, but salty water suggests it has come in when either out in rough weather and it has forced it's way in via a crack in a seal etc or you have a leak! Salty water is more serious than fresh and needs investigating.
If it is fresh water it has probably come in whilst you have been washing down. Yep you have self draining scuppers, but if you are flashing a hose around and squirting gallons of water about it will find a way in somewhere. Usually via the lazarette hatch (cockpit deck hatch), by squeezing under the rubber seals.

Hi Mike

I'll try and answer the questions in a straight forward way as I would put money that much of the equipment will be very similar to that on a Merry Fisher 625.

I'll do my best not to poke fun, patronise or be a pain, but the very first two comments was there for the taking, please forgive me.

Answers in red above.

Tom

 

I have noticed that during heavy rain the there are drip around some of the sleeved bolts that hold the screen. Anyone know the name for these as the nearest I have found is book bolts.
It must be a sort of capilliary action. I also have a drip around the forw'd ventilator. All jobs for the winter. Overall I have never had water higher than the lower keel bilge. Took it out with a sponge and no more than a bucketfull. It irratating that with suposed self draining there is still water gettting in. I would be very concerned if I thought any water at all is coming in through the stainless keel band as this is about 3-5 inches thick.
Main problem I think could be the seal around the aft deck hatch as I think it is like a cheap suit from Moss Bross i.e fits where it touches. This was covered a while back and thicker neoprene seemed to be the answer. But if you don't open the hatch often dirt wherever it comes from seems to build up.

 

I have noticed that during heavy rain the there are drip around some of the sleeved bolts that hold the screen. Anyone know the name for these as the nearest I have found is book bolts.
It must be a sort of capilliary action. I also have a drip around the forw'd ventilator. .

The bolt drips aren't from capilliary action, they are simply leaking. Take them off competely and put them back on with plenty of silicon around and in the holes before you stick the bolt through.
The vent is propbably simply poor design of the vent and water gets blown up and into the vent area in certain wind directions or if forced by hose power for example.

Tom

 

Mike, if it is like my 640 which is a 2007 model & build then as Cascars said both electric bilge pumps are behind the fuel tank and can be accessed through the inspection hatch in the outboard well.

Your dealer should have explained the workings to you (my dealers hand over was actually the best thing about them!), but if not mine work as follows:

The auto pump is always on assuming the battery isolator is not turned off (and will pump/run when water is present around it). I have a red indicator light on the dash that indicates if it is running (to the right of the actual switch board), the switch for this is then basically a manual over-ride in case float/water switch fails.

The electric second pump is manually turned on or off by its own seperate switch on the dash. I was told that it is part of CE requirements to have a second bilge pump in case one fails.

Yours will probably be wired the same, I'm not sure whether they are installed by dealer or factory.

Although my boats is out of the water now in the 6 months it was in I only ever got a bit of water in the bilge and that was probably from opening lockers in the rain, and a bit of rain water getting in through hatches/vents, condensation etc (unless I have some hidden away somewhere!?!)

 

Mike, if it is like my 640 which is a 2007 model & build then as Cascars said both electric bilge pumps are behind the fuel tank and can be accessed through the inspection hatch in the outboard well.

Your dealer should have explained the workings to you (my dealers hand over was actually the best thing about them!), but if not mine work as follows:

The auto pump is always on assuming the battery isolator is not turned off (and will pump/run when water is present around it). I have a red indicator light on the dash that indicates if it is running (to the right of the actual switch board), the switch for this is then basically a manual over-ride in case float/water switch fails.

The electric second pump is manually turned on or off by its own seperate switch on the dash. I was told that it is part of CE requirements to have a second bilge pump in case one fails.

Yours will probably be wired the same, I'm not sure whether they are installed by dealer or factory.

Although my boats is out of the water now in the 6 months it was in I only ever got a bit of water in the bilge and that was probably from opening lockers in the rain, and a bit of rain water getting in through hatches/vents, condensation etc (unless I have some hidden away somewhere!?!)

Thanks S1Coe - your description of things seems a bit nearer the mark than Tom's but then you do have the same boat. I haven't even opened that little hatch on the seaward side of the transom so I'll take a look tomorrow. I have found an electrical scheme amongst the paperwork but it's pretty primitive and has no key for novices. I thought I'd found the pumps as Pb and Ps but then found another Pb so doubt whether there are 3 pumps. Only way to test whether it's got a permanent supply bypassing the isolator is I guess to put a meter on it if I can see any terminals or pour some water in.
I think the switch for one of the pumps is marked 'auto bilge manual' which seemed like the Poles must have been having a bit of a laugh until Cascars explanation - ie you can switch your normally auto bilge pump to manual (I know - as long as there's water there!)

Can I take this opportunity to explain that I don't think my dealer is as bad as some of you may be making out. I ordered the boat from a place 180 miles away and delivery was due at the end of October. The MD was going to drive it down and spend a day with me. For whatever reason he wasn't able to do this, and asked if they could put the delivery off by a week. I had booked holiday and a slot in the marina, and I was itching to get my hands on the boat - having paid for it. So I took up their alternative offer of one of their drivers bringing it down, in the full knowledge that he wasn't going to be able to give me much of a briefing. Yes there have been issues - some of them have been down to me, some down to the dealer, but some of them IMHO down to poor communication between the importer and the dealer. The dealer has so far sorted everything I have asked for - or is in the process of trying, and I think it only reasonable that if something can be sorted locally rather than asking the dealer to visit or me taking the boat back to him somehow, then I should try and accommodate them.

 

Thanks S1Coe - your description of things seems a bit nearer the mark than Tom's but then you do have the same boat. I haven't even opened that little hatch on the seaward side of the transom so I'll take a look tomorrow. I have found an electrical scheme amongst the paperwork but it's pretty primitive and has no key for novices. I thought I'd found the pumps as Pb and Ps but then found another Pb so doubt whether there are 3 pumps. Only way to test whether it's got a permanent supply bypassing the isolator is I guess to put a meter on it if I can see any terminals or pour some water in.
I think the switch for one of the pumps is marked 'auto bilge manual' which seemed like the Poles must have been having a bit of a laugh until Cascars explanation - ie you can switch your normally auto bilge pump to manual (I know - as long as there's water there!)

Can I take this opportunity to explain that I don't think my dealer is as bad as some of you may be making out. I ordered the boat from a place 180 miles away and delivery was due at the end of October. The MD was going to drive it down and spend a day with me. For whatever reason he wasn't able to do this, and asked if they could put the delivery off by a week. I had booked holiday and a slot in the marina, and I was itching to get my hands on the boat - having paid for it. So I took up their alternative offer of one of their drivers bringing it down, in the full knowledge that he wasn't going to be able to give me much of a briefing. Yes there have been issues - some of them have been down to me, some down to the dealer, but some of them IMHO down to poor communication between the importer and the dealer. The dealer has so far sorted everything I have asked for - or is in the process of trying, and I think it only reasonable that if something can be sorted locally rather than asking the dealer to visit or me taking the boat back to him somehow, then I should try and accommodate them.

Mike,not wanting to worry you BUT i know you have 3 pumps but if you experience the problems that cascars has had with bulk heads splitting etc I would fit another and make it 4....Just to be on the safe side!

 

Mike,not wanting to worry you BUT i know you have 3 pumps but if you experience the problems that cascars has had with bulk heads splitting etc I would fit another and make it 4....Just to be on the safe side!

And dont forget to carry a big bucket as well just in case:giveup:.
Seriously though, the probelms I have had, although annoying have not been life threatening and most have been sorted out satisfactorily.
From what I have seen Mike you have had good service from your dealer. I was the same as you, could not wait to get the boat and did not take in all the information I could have. I still think though that QS dealers offer a good service and if you are not happy with any aspect then go straight to IBS, they will sort it.

 

And dont forget to carry a big bucket as well just in case:giveup:.
Seriously though, the probelms I have had, although annoying have not been life threatening and most have been sorted out satisfactorily.
From what I have seen Mike you have had good service from your dealer. I was the same as you, could not wait to get the boat and did not take in all the information I could have. I still think though that QS dealers offer a good service and if you are not happy with any aspect then go straight to IBS, they will sort it.

Make it 5 pumps and drop the bucket.:blink:

 

Mike,not wanting to worry you BUT i know you have 3 pumps but if you experience the problems that cascars has had with bulk heads splitting etc I would fit another and make it 4....Just to be on the safe side!

Very good Ron .... and if I can find the hand pump that Tom is convinced is in there somewhere, and I could pressgang my baitpump into service I'll be laughing ..... and singing 'Rosie' all the way home

 

Very good Ron .... and if I can find the hand pump that Tom is convinced is in there somewhere, and I could pressgang my baitpump into service I'll be laughing ..... and singing 'Rosie' all the way home

Im only joking mate!....Im sure the boat is fine.Like all new things they take a while to find your way around them.Shame youre not a bit closer,I would of paid you a visit.

 

Can I take this opportunity to explain that I don't think my dealer is as bad as some of you may be making out. I ordered the boat from a place 180 miles away and delivery was due at the end of October. The MD was going to drive it down and spend a day with me. For whatever reason he wasn't able to do this, and asked if they could put the delivery off by a week. I had booked holiday and a slot in the marina, and I was itching to get my hands on the boat - having paid for it. So I took up their alternative offer of one of their drivers bringing it down, in the full knowledge that he wasn't going to be able to give me much of a briefing. Yes there have been issues - some of them have been down to me, some down to the dealer, but some of them IMHO down to poor communication between the importer and the dealer. The dealer has so far sorted everything I have asked for - or is in the process of trying, and I think it only reasonable that if something can be sorted locally rather than asking the dealer to visit or me taking the boat back to him somehow, then I should try and accommodate them.

Mike, my mis-understanding I wasn't aware that you didn't have a full handover etc :notworthy, I was steering more to the issue that the handover from my dealer was good and the chap who did it was the main mechanic and ex-rnli so went through everything, which suprised me as they are not so hot on everything else. Don't get me wrong as I've mentioned in other posts I have no problems with my boat and love it to bits, just my dealer.

Can't wait to get it back in the water, I think I to may have the wrong prop on mine!!! it can wait until next year now, I've too many things to do at the moment including going to Barbados on Thurs to get some sun and proper sea fishing in.:bleh:

 

I have a problem with the on - off- auto switches and the way the pumps are wired.

Why have the on option? If water is present the auto option should in theory take care of it. I can see the sense in an over ride switch in case the auto tilt or pressure switch fails.

I know of a guy who was out on a Merry Fisher sat with feet in the water over the stern. His mate on the other stern quarter similar. Red hot summer day, freelining eels for bass and drinking beer.

Now both guys are big, one is a 6 foot 7" rugby player.

Ther weight on the stern submerged the scuppers, water entered and despite the deck hatch being closed it flooded the storage area. The rugby player was alarmed when water was close to his knees. By that time the battery in the starboard locker was awash and nothing was working.

OK, without discussing the ins and outs would it not be better to have the pump wired to auto, direct to the battery, a manual option for permanently on one switch and a covered switch for bilge pump master on-off with a warning on the cover. The only need for the off switch would be if a fault ocured in the auto switch and the pump was running dry or to facilitate replacement of the pump or switch.

Reasonably simple to wire and source parts for, probably just as cheap for the manufacturer.

 

Mike, my mis-understanding I wasn't aware that you didn't have a full handover etc :notworthy, I was steering more to the issue that the handover from my dealer was good and the chap who did it was the main mechanic and ex-rnli so went through everything, which suprised me as they are not so hot on everything else. Don't get me wrong as I've mentioned in other posts I have no problems with my boat and love it to bits, just my dealer.

Can't wait to get it back in the water, I think I to may have the wrong prop on mine!!! it can wait until next year now, I've too many things to do at the moment including going to Barbados on Thurs to get some sun and proper sea fishing in.:bleh:

No problem mate ... a lot of people have kept telling me that I should nuke the dealer's premises, or get them put on the boat-abusers register or something similar, but I hadn't explained the delivery situation previously ... largely because I thought someone would call me an idiot, someone else would be gobsmacked, and others would be telling me I would only have myself to blame for not waiting. Anyway my pants have been taken down so many times now that I have ceased to care.
Is your boat a 640 ... it looks shorter but I think your avatar is squashed up?

 

Is your boat a 640 ... it looks shorter but I think your avatar is squashed up?

Yep its a 640 2007, 100HP Mercury 4stroke but the engine is the 2006 model so doesn't have the Verado features.

Photo earlier in the year, I had moved it from its normal home so it would dry out at low tide so I could do a few jobs and check the anti-foul.

 

Hi Mike

My description of what you "may have" and is basic regs was wrong, but I am still a little confused as to what you do have.

It sounds like you have three pumps?
If this is the case then it's superb and you have all bases covered.
1) Standard Electronic Pump that you manually switch on
2) Electronic Pump with a float or pressure switch which should bypass the battery isolator
3) Manual Bilge Pump that is hand pumped incase electroncis fail

In any scenario I would insist on having 3) above as if you are sinking, the first thing that goes is usually the elctronics.
Ideally all three above with the next best being 2) & 3) and finally 1) & 3).

It sounds like you have all three and if so and it's standard then hats off to Quicksilver. For anyone else out there, if you don't have all three and you want it, it's dead easy to fit, just rarely standard on boats of that size.

Tom

 

Hi Mike

My description of what you "may have" and is basic regs was wrong, but I am still a little confused as to what you do have.

It sounds like you have three pumps?
If this is the case then it's superb and you have all bases covered.
1) Standard Electronic Pump that you manually switch on
2) Electronic Pump with a float or pressure switch which should bypass the battery isolator
3) Manual Bilge Pump that is hand pumped incase electroncis fail

In any scenario I would insist on having 3) above as if you are sinking, the first thing that goes is usually the elctronics.
Ideally all three above with the next best being 2) & 3) and finally 1) & 3).

It sounds like you have all three and if so and it's standard then hats off to Quicksilver. For anyone else out there, if you don't have all three and you want it, it's dead easy to fit, just rarely standard on boats of that size.

Tom

Just to save other Quicksilver owners stripping out bulkheads to find hidden bilge pumps ...... I really don't think I have got 3 fitted to my boat - it's probably just me misreading a wiring diagram .... anyway why would a manual bilge pump be on a wiring diagram in the first place.
Good point about when the electrics fail though.

 

Hi Mike,
Probably stating the obvious but here goes.
Do you have a wet store tank because that will show as number one pump as a circulation pump through the tank. There must be a switch for it somewhere.
The bilge pump that is normally locally aft of the fuel tank, it is on mine is controlled by a switch on the dash probably Manual off and auto. There is a float switch attached to the bilge pump wired directly off the battery, It should be totally independent of what you do with the battery master switch. I presume also that you have two batteries. Starting and everything else. This is wired and I plan to do this myself so that both batteries are charged in the "both" position and available to use to get extra oomf in event of low starter battery.
In position one Starter only. position 2 domestic and position Both as above.
Hope this makes some little sense.

 

Hi Mike,
Probably stating the obvious but here goes.
Do you have a wet store tank because that will show as number one pump as a circulation pump through the tank. There must be a switch for it somewhere.
The bilge pump that is normally locally aft of the fuel tank, it is on mine is controlled by a switch on the dash probably Manual off and auto. There is a float switch attached to the bilge pump wired directly off the battery, It should be totally independent of what you do with the battery master switch. I presume also that you have two batteries. Starting and everything else. This is wired and I plan to do this myself so that both batteries are charged in the "both" position and available to use to get extra oomf in event of low starter battery.
In position one Starter only. position 2 domestic and position Both as above.
Hope this makes some little sense.

Aha ... ding .... of course you are right Rod, there's a livebait well witha little pump. I've converted it for use as storage for my tackle boxes - as far as I know no-one up this way dreams of using livebait.

I think mine is wired differently from yours - my isolator switch is Battery 1/battery 2/ both ... and as far as the batteries are concerned there is no distinction between churning the motor or doing the domestics (as you put it). But in truth I'm guessing and going from memory from what the dealer told me .... which is what is annoying me - why isn't it down on paper somewhere?