Yes remove tbe brakes as u have a mag now.

 

If it was me I would leave the brake blocks in !! as you have said that you previously underfilled the spool
you know how fast these things run !!! In a fishing situation the distance that the brake blocks make will be minimal
but the loss of line due to a crack off or a damn fine birdy would ruin your night !!
I would add a bit of backing to the line you already have on the spool and learn where you can load the level to
and still manage the casting as the reel will be a different animal now (slower but not slow)

 

There is no real need for brake blocks if u have a mag fitted to the reel. Set the mags before u cast and jobs a good un!

 

Cheers guys ill take it down the beach try it out with a lead, it's a great reel just wanted to try get a bit more from it with the mag, get some more line / distance

 

There is no real need for brake blocks if u have a mag fitted to the reel. Set the mags before u cast and jobs a good un!

If this is the case then why do the top of the range "mag" reels come with brake block carriers on their spools ????

 

Good question?

 

I thought so to , for the record I have 2 speedmasters so I know how fast they run ,
personally I would leave the brake blocks in !!

 

If this is the case then why do the top of the range "mag" reels come with brake block carriers on their spools ????

The point of having a magged reel is todo away with the brake blocks. If u have a reel that's magged and brakes then its overly magged.

The shimano speedmaster even with brakes is a nitemare to cast. A mag reel u do not need brakes what so ever. What's the point in having a magged reel with brakes?

If you have a magged reel with brakes then take the brake blocks out and use the mag. That's what the mag kits were designed for, mag gives more control than what brake blocks do.

Daiwa 7 ht mag and st don't come with brake blocks. Avets don't come with brake blocks.

Abu 6500 reels come with both but like I've said there is no point in having brake blocks if u have a mag as that's what the mag is for.

If u have a reel that's got both then try it without the brakes, set the mags and cast and I'm sure your cast will go further than with brakes blocks fitted.

 

I have 2 speedmasters. 1 with a mag kit the other without. The speedmasters will spin up for over 2 mins easy with 1 block fitted. Even that's to fast to cast and u gotta thumb it to slow reel down. Speedmaster with mag kit will run for 2 mins with the mags off. Once the mags are on the reel will spin for 14 sec.
Hit the cast and slacken the mags off as the reel is climbing, you will get more distance.

Do the tourny boys use mags and brakes ? Nope just mags.
Slidey mags are crap.
Get a reel with either a mono or centre mag. Speedmaster mono mag. Job done

 

not trying to be a smart ar*e , but the problem the speedmaster has is on the initial surge of the cast that leads to "over run" as the lead tries to keep the line tought to the "spill off" from the spool some anglers struggle to master this on the speedmaster and just simply change to another reel
Personally I fitted both my speedmasters with the largest fibre blocks from the abu 7000 which transformed the reel totally ,
the blocks driven by centrifugal force work better the faster the reel spins and as it slows they are less effective which I am sure you know.
I would imagine that BIGBAZ1974 speedmaster is fitted with the smaller original blocks (which I think where plastic) so would have very little effect to the distance he casts in a fishing situation if left in but would help with the initial surge of the cast , and as you have said the speedmaster can be a nightmare to cast with the brakes in therefore the magnet will help ! but, if he puts more line on the spool that initial surge will payout even more line for the lead to try and keep taught and I am not 100% convinced the magnet alone would control this , I know people who have fitted the magnet conversion thinking it would "fix" the reels casting behaviour, removed the brakes and still struggle to master the reel !

I can not coment about the avet reels because I have never cast one , or stripped one to see if their spools are fitted with brake carriers or not !
But the 7ht mags have a centrifugal magnet braking system which works simillar to a conventional centrifugal fibre block set up but unsure about the
7ht turbo this could be different but I am sure that the akios / rocket fuel reels also have both magnet and brake carriers in them just like the abu's and these are the reels I was referring to when I put "top of the range" I just missed "casting" from my post , sorry for any confusion this caused it was not intended to be a snotty reply
John

 

Hit the cast and slacken the mags off as the reel is climbing, you will get more distance.

If the reel is climbing then you've forgotten to tighten the reel seat/coasters and altering the mag setting is the least of your worries!!!

 

wahhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
boom boom

 

Smart arse Matty. I ment the lead is climbing NOT the reel

 

Just won a speedmaster on eBay, are they as bad as the Mitchell 602 I learnt to cast with years ago !

 

no not at all
get the largest "fibre" blocks and slighly thicker oil - lovely
get a mag tame as fe.......k

 

not trying to be a smart ar*e , but the problem the speedmaster has is on the initial surge of the cast that leads to "over run" as the lead tries to keep the line tought to the "spill off" from the spool some anglers struggle to master this on the speedmaster and just simply change to another reel Personally I fitted both my speedmasters with the largest fibre blocks from the abu 7000 which transformed the reel totally , the blocks driven by centrifugal force work better the faster the reel spins and as it slows they are less effective which I am sure you know.I would imagine that BIGBAZ1974 speedmaster is fitted with the smaller original blocks (which I think where plastic) so would have very little effect to the distance he casts in a fishing situation if left in but would help with the initial surge of the cast , and as you have said the speedmaster can be a nightmare to cast with the brakes in therefore the magnet will help ! but, if he puts more line on the spool that initial surge will payout even more line for the lead to try and keep taught and I am not 100% convinced the magnet alone would control this , I know people who have fitted the magnet conversion thinking it would "fix" the reels casting behaviour, removed the brakes and still struggle to master the reel !I can not coment about the avet reels because I have never cast one , or stripped one to see if their spools are fitted with brake carriers or not ! But the 7ht mags have a centrifugal magnet braking system which works simillar to a conventional centrifugal fibre block set up but unsure about the 7ht turbo this could be different but I am sure that the akios / rocket fuel reels also have both magnet and brake carriers in them just like the abu's and these are the reels I was referring to when I put "top of the range" I just missed "casting" from my post , sorry for any confusion this caused it was not intended to be a snotty reply John

ALL mag brakes work reactively to the speed of the spool in the same way that centrifugal brakes do so if they are set up right and you have the right size magnet in them they will will work adequately on their own, without the need for blocks at all. There are a whole load of IIfs speedmasters out there with mags attached in everyday use (which did not have the centrifugal system fitted) so there is no reason to assume that they are a nessesity by any means.AVETs with mags only work fine (and AVETs do not come with a centrifugal system at all) .... so do Ambassaders and I also have a Speedmaster with mags only .... if I can handle one with mags only I reckon anybody can. If people cannot handle them its generally because they have simply over-estimated their casting ability and have too small a magnet in them.Personally I think the likes of ABU and Akios leave the centrifugal systems in on their magged reels for three reasons .... firstly it is another "feature" to print on the side of the box, it gives anglers/casters a choice of which to use or maybe a combination but I think the most obvious reason is that it would actually cost extra money to take them out .... the components of the centrifugal systems on these reels are built into other major parts on the reels (brake ring on the brake plate/ pins on the spool drive plate) so to take them out would mean additional work to either adapt parts on the shelves or mean they would have to carry stock of another part, neither of which makes much sense from a manufacturing point of view.Personally I think if the reel has the ability to use blocks then at least leave it so you can use blocks as well if you want to, its nice to have the choice but for most mortals if you want to use just the mags but find you can't control it with magnets on their own then the simple cure (and it is that simple) is to put a bigger magnet in .... when I'm asked to set them up with "safe mags" customers regularly comment that they find them slow.

 

Just won a speedmaster on eBay, are they as bad as the Mitchell 602 I learnt to cast with years ago !

If you have the 11FS, then yes, it will be! This version came without the centrifugal brakes, and is transformed with a Mag "system".

The 11CFS has the centrifugal brakes, but can benefit from a mag attachment, but it's not essential.

I've fitted a small mono-mag to my 11CFS's, (meant for the Abu fishing version by Blakdog) as it gives me the option of using lighter oil in the bearings if I feel the need to experiment more.
However, I still use the brake blocks, and before the I fitted the Mag, it was tuned for fishing distance and was always on the edge when casting into a headwind with a big bait.
With the Mag added, it's more docile with no noticeable loss of distance, and if conditions are favourable then I'll unwind the Mag either before or during the cast.

With my 11FS, I've found it'll run nicely (the one without the centrifugal brakes) with a combination of magnets glued on the inside of the sideplate. I can add or subtract, as they cling piggyback style, but you lose the adjustability on the beach. But I like the fact it keeps the sideplate clean of any nobs, and there's no drilling involved!

As for the Mitchell 602AP, they make excellent boat reels with the chrome brass spools!

Attached are (1) 602AP; (2) 11CFS; (3) 11CFS; (4) 11FS; (5) 11FS.

 

One other thing you can do to the speedmaster spools is to skim off about 25thou off the spool sideplates, especially up near the rim. There is a lot of metal there (about 50thou) and a lot of inertia to start and control. Do this on the outside of the end plates.
This leaves less metal for the mags to act on, but is still plenty to make it real slow with a single small magnet.
Den

 

Just won a speedmaster on eBay, are they as bad as the Mitchell 602 I learnt to cast with years ago !

Yep, I tried them, magged them, chucked them....overrated, IMHO

 

One other thing you can do to the speedmaster spools is to skim off about 25thou off the spool sideplates, especially up near the rim. There is a lot of metal there (about 50thou) and a lot of inertia to start and control. Do this on the outside of the end plates.
This leaves less metal for the mags to act on, but is still plenty to make it real slow with a single small magnet.
Den

From a previous post on this subject, (apologies to Phil for taking the liberty), Phil Hyde (philtherod) gave us his findings when he was given the prototypes to test for the British market.
He went on to recommend to Shimano that they should "beef" up the spool sideplates, as they were prone to collapsing under the line pressure from stretched monofilament under fishing conditions.

For the casting field, I would expect to see some gains, but as this reel is not competitive against the latest generation of Abu/Akios/Daiwa alternatives, it's not something I would endorse!

I'd like, however to hear how you tamed the 602's and Penn 100's (attached) in the earlier days!
I still have a Don's Antilash that I used on a Penn Surfmaster 150, but it still wasn't as reliable as an educated thumb!:thumbs:

 

Thanks for all the replies guys very informative, cheers

 

From a previous post on this subject, (apologies to Phil for taking the liberty), Phil Hyde (philtherod) gave us his findings when he was given the prototypes to test for the British market.
He went on to recommend to Shimano that they should "beef" up the spool sideplates, as they were prone to collapsing under the line pressure from stretched monofilament under fishing conditions.

For the casting field, I would expect to see some gains, but as this reel is not competitive against the latest generation of Abu/Akios/Daiwa alternatives, it's not something I would endorse!

I'd like, however to hear how you tamed the 602's and Penn 100's (attached) in the early day's!
I still have a Don's Antilash that I used on a Penn Surfmaster 150, but it still wasn't as reliable as an educated thumb!:thumbs:

Thought that would get a response I started to make my own spools for the Penn 100 because the plastic ones were prone to bursting, same as the 602AP ones did. The side plates were 1/16" thick near the centre tapering to about 20thou at the rim.

There is a lot of metal at the rim of the speedmaster spools which to MY mind serves no purpose, and so I skimmed it down to about half the thickness, and then decided to do the side plate as well (I can't leave anything alone). So far, several months use and often winching in a load of weed (pump and wind) I have had no problems

I don't suppose most on WSF have ever used plastic spools and had them burst when winding in on the beach........sometimes the spool burst was so bad you couldn't even get the side plate off to remove it, absolute nightmare.

I used 3in1 oil but added a tiny disc of ptfe in the end caps and tightened down gently for fishing. Only needed setting once and then you could forget it for the rest of the winter. In the field I just uses 3in1 and thumb control if needed.......not needed most of the time as the plain bearings were slow enough to keep the spool under control if the cast was smooth enough.

Den

 

"I don't suppose most on WSF have ever used plastic spools and had them burst when winding in on the beach........sometimes the spool burst was so bad you couldn't even get the side plate off to remove it, absolute nightmare."

The plastic spools where not the only ones to suffer this fate !! some of the earlier abu 6500's suffered it to,
mainly the high speed version from the 70's where the line presure distorted the side plates and caused it to rub on the
"brake drum" over time this would lead to the spool wall wearing thin on the walls of the spool and then during a good cast
the spool would "POP"

The higher the ratio of the gears the more stress the spools take from line pressure trying to burst the sides off
which is why people back in the day used to advise to pump your heavy rigs (big fish or strands of kelp) in and reel on the down stroke of the rod instead of just cranking them in

 

ALL mag brakes work reactively to the speed of the spool in the same way that centrifugal brakes do so if they are set up right and you have the right size magnet in them they will will work adequately on their own, without the need for blocks at all. There are a whole load of IIfs speedmasters out there with mags attached in everyday use (which did not have the centrifugal system fitted) so there is no reason to assume that they are a nessesity by any means.AVETs with mags only work fine (and AVETs do not come with a centrifugal system at all) .... so do Ambassaders and I also have a Speedmaster with mags only .... if I can handle one with mags only I reckon anybody can. If people cannot handle them its generally because they have simply over-estimated their casting ability and have too small a magnet in them.Personally I think the likes of ABU and Akios leave the centrifugal systems in on their magged reels for three reasons .... firstly it is another "feature" to print on the side of the box, it gives anglers/casters a choice of which to use or maybe a combination but I think the most obvious reason is that it would actually cost extra money to take them out .... the components of the centrifugal systems on these reels are built into other major parts on the reels (brake ring on the brake plate/ pins on the spool drive plate) so to take them out would mean additional work to either adapt parts on the shelves or mean they would have to carry stock of another part, neither of which makes much sense from a manufacturing point of view.Personally I think if the reel has the ability to use blocks then at least leave it so you can use blocks as well if you want to, its nice to have the choice but for most mortals if you want to use just the mags but find you can't control it with magnets on their own then the simple cure (and it is that simple) is to put a bigger magnet in .... when I'm asked to set them up with "safe mags" customers regularly comment that they find them slow.

"all mag brakes work reactively to the speed of the spool in the same way that centrifugal brakes do"

No they don't i'm afraid .. we could argue about this for months and years i'm sure but ......
centrifugal fibre brakes do the majority of their work at the begining of the cast and then fade out in the middle off the cast !
mag brakes do more braking at the middle to the end of the cast " unless you adjust them during the cast" which is why you
see tournament casters adjusting them constantly during their leads flight time it's as simple as that the only exeption to that rule
to my knowledge for "BEACH ANGLERS" is the 7ht mag which uses a centrifugal magnet system .

visit this website

this will show you what I am saying about the fact that the mag system alone fitted to the speedmaster is not nesessarily the way to control the initial surge of speed and that buy leaving the brakes in will have very little effect to the distance the reel casts in a "fishing" situation

cheers John

 

I tried to add the site as a link but it has not worked so just type

www.japantackle.com/topics/brake_system

in to your search engine and it will bring up the website I am referring to
it is showed as a link on this post but does not work here either