Ones a glue the other is a casting resin. The glue might do the job but will probably look a little rubbish at best, last time I used one it set almost yellow

I'm quite new to this rod building but I built a couple with the diamond sheen or whatever it is on ebay, it did the job but did noticed colours not so good. I did a rod same black fuji thread looked slightly blue in bright daylight, whereas with flex coat was black as bog

 

The slower cures will give a better finish and fewer air bubbles and not turn yellow. They also allow you to apply multi thinned layers on the turner till you achieve the sheen you want.
The faster setting araldite ones will seal and stick your threads 100% but are more picky with air bubbles, yellow a lot and don't give you the working time.

 

No debate I know of, some prefer one brand as it`s easier, others prefer another brand, as it`s easier, almost always "pilot error" They are all more or less identical, the rod building resin that is, as been said it is a casting resin designed to take a shape. Araldite is a glue as are the other similar things from cheapie shops.

Horses for courses, ask yourself, would I use custard or jam to glue two bits of wood together or stick oil from the deep fat fryer into your car engine ?????

 

No debate I know of, some prefer one brand as it`s easier, others prefer another brand, as it`s easier, almost always "pilot error" They are all more or less identical, the rod building resin that is, as been said it is a casting resin designed to take a shape. Araldite is a glue as are the other similar things from cheapie shops.

Horses for courses, ask yourself, would I use custard or jam to glue two bits of wood together or stick oil from the deep fat fryer into your car engine ?????

I had to chuckle at this comment Stan.

I have done and may well do again as it is great stuff to run on . Even cleans the engine fuel system out, I did over 10k miles on my last Shogun on the stuff


On the resins then its a matter of how its applied and which is preferred and for the finish wanted.

Casting resin being best but can still change the thread colour.

Surely though any resin used and what ever type cheapo or rod builders, if turned enough while setting until it holds its shape it will hold then shape and do the job or does it not ?

What about polyurethane resin ( not poly casting resin though) you can do a hot mix so it sets at a speed you want. Done that a few times when i have messed up working with it lol.

I am complicating things now with adding Poly resin in the choices or si that just a no no as it does not set quite as hard as epoxy. After all though it is a strong resin.

 

I know fine well you can run an engine on fat, I meant putting it into the sump, not the tank.

Anyway it is your choice entirely, you use whatever you think is best, possibly before deciding have a look at the wee video of this geezer using adhesive and remember he is using Flex Coat rod building adhesive which is a lot thinner than Araldite or similar. Then have a check at the video that follows it using proper rod building polymer resin, your choice.

 

Id hate to think of the damage he's doing to the blank with that lighter, Surely that heat will destroy the carbon ?

 

Personally I`d rather it ended up a bit like these

 

Id hate to think of the damage he's doing to the blank with that lighter, Surely that heat will destroy the carbon ?

Probably not if he does not get too close but he will have fun if the gunge he is putting on decides to go up

 

I think the point here for the 'incoming' rod builder is to understand the differences between 2 part epoxy adhesives and 2 part epoxy casting resins.

Adhesives are designed to do just that, adhere between two surfaces, usually in the absence of sunlight - under a reel seat, inside a tip ring. And in this they do a very good job and on the whole have a very good life span. For they are not designed to be flexible, nor resistant to UV light - it is not in their specific chemical make up.

Coating or casting resins are designed to encapsulate a item to retain intregrity, and they equally do the same job, however in that encapsulation they are going to be subjected in some situations to UV light, bending and need to be inert when used with certain other materials.

So, in the case of coating or casting resins that are specifically designed for coating threadwork on fishing rods, they have a modified formula that includes UV inhibitors as well as flexibility charateristics. They also have properites developed to retain colours of the entrapped materials/threads and to not react with the majority of inert rod bindings threads, as well as easy flow charateristics during application. To attain all these properties as well as their strength, they are generally very slow setting, and during that process quite temperature sensitive. After this initial setting period, they are also strength curing for a further period, but retain a near life long protection against UV light, retain strength with flexibility and clarity of colour.

None of the above charateristics are present in adhesives - like Araldite or others.

Sure, you can do a 'quick fix' with an adhesive resin over threads and a ring, and it will work for a time, until it becomes subjected to too much UV light, when it will inevitably turn yellow, and start to become brittle.

Ultimately, the choice is yours. Sure there are also many other types of resin and coating, and they all equally have to comply with the end useage that we are currently using casting resins. The biggest two factors are UV resistance and flexibility with strength.

Hope that helps clarify between 'resins'.

Cheers from sunny Africa.

 

There's a lot to be said for bagging tape:BigGrin:


Forgive me Stan but I couldn't resist :wink:

 

Personally my friend I would take Stan's advice when it comes to rod building, end of.

 

I would only ever use the proper stuff for a build ------- however , I have used B&Q epoxy for repairs , having explained that it does have disadvantages -ie , cracking , yellowing etc. - but it does get a rod back into use in double quick time . and sometimes that may be exactly what is needed .
the B&Q stuff is good for that sort of use - but I believe they have discontinued it , and now sell that American stuff which is not a clear resin .